Planting & Feeding Trees

Trees to Plant in Winter and the Best Planting Seasons

Learn when winter tree planting works, which trees suit it, how to handle bare-root stock, and how winter compares with fall, spring and summer planting.

On this page
  1. Can you plant trees in winter?
  2. Why dormant-season planting can work
  3. Winter planting by climate
  4. Trees that suit winter planting
  5. Planting bare-root trees in winter
  6. Winter planting steps
  7. Aftercare through winter
  8. Planting seasons compared
  9. Planting under and around existing trees
  10. Frequently asked questions

Can you plant trees in winter?

Often, yes. Many trees can be planted in winter as long as the soil is workable, meaning it is not frozen solid, waterlogged or buried under snow. Winter planting is most straightforward in mild climates, and in colder regions it tends to be limited to spells when the ground can be dug cleanly.

The right answer depends on your local climate, the kind of tree and how it is sold (bare-root, container or balled-and-burlapped). Local extension services and nurseries can tell you the typical planting window for your area.

Why dormant-season planting can work

Deciduous trees drop their leaves in autumn and go dormant. A dormant tree is not supporting a canopy of leaves, so it demands less water while its roots begin to settle in. Planted in the dormant season, it has time to establish before spring growth begins.

Evergreens are different. They keep their foliage and continue to lose some water through winter, so they can dry out in cold wind, especially if the soil is frozen and roots cannot take up water. That is one reason evergreen planting in cold regions deserves more care.

Winter planting does not suit every situation. Avoid it when:

  • The soil is frozen, waterlogged or very muddy.
  • A tree is only marginally hardy for your area and could be damaged by the first hard cold.
  • You cannot water during dry, windy spells.

Winter planting by climate

Mild-winter regions. In warmer areas (roughly USDA hardiness zones 8 to 11, according to common planting guidance), the ground usually stays workable, and the cooler months are a popular time to plant. Roots can keep growing slowly in mild soil, which helps the tree before the heat of summer.

Cold-winter regions. In colder zones, planting in the depths of winter is generally impractical. If the ground stays frozen, planting usually waits for early spring, or for late fall while the soil is still workable. If a thaw makes digging possible, planting is feasible, but protect the tree from drying wind.

Trees that suit winter planting

How and where you plant matters as much as which tree you pick, but some groups are more naturally suited to the dormant season.

  • Deciduous trees and bare-root stock. Bare-root trees are sold without soil and are typically available only while dormant. Fruit trees, many shade trees and some ornamentals are commonly sold this way.
  • Evergreens in mild climates. Trees such as southern magnolia and live oak are often planted in cooler months in warm regions.
  • Cold-hardy conifers. Spruces and pines can be planted when the soil is not frozen, though they benefit from watering and wind protection.
  • Trees with winter interest. Species with attractive bark or persistent fruit, such as river birch, paperbark maple or some crabapples, look good in winter, so you can judge the form of a tree when you decide where to put it.

Always check that a species is hardy in your zone and that its mature size fits the space. The list of disease-resistant trees can help narrow choices. If you are choosing a tree for a special purpose, such as a memorial tree, the same checks apply.

Planting bare-root trees in winter

Bare-root trees are usually less expensive than container trees and are easier to transport, but the roots must not dry out.

  • Plant as soon as possible after the tree arrives.
  • If you cannot plant right away, keep the roots covered and moist in a cool, sheltered place. For a longer delay, temporarily planting the tree in a large pot or bucket of moist compost is a common approach.
  • Before planting, many growers soak the roots in water for a few hours to rehydrate them.
  • Spread the roots out in the hole rather than curling them.

Winter planting steps

  1. Check the ground. Do not plant into frozen, waterlogged or very muddy soil.
  2. Dig a wide, shallow hole. The hole should be wider than the root system and no deeper than the root ball, so the root flare (where the trunk widens) sits at or just above ground level. Some growers recommend a square-sided hole to discourage circling roots.
  3. Position and backfill. Set the tree straight, backfill with the native soil and firm it gently to remove large air pockets.
  4. Stake only if needed. Small trees often stand without support. Large or top-heavy trees may need staking for the first year or so while roots anchor; remove stakes once the tree is stable.
  5. Water in. Water well after planting if the soil is not frozen.
  6. Mulch. Spread a layer of organic mulch over the root zone, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. For more on mulch choices, see our article on cedar mulch around fruit trees.

Aftercare through winter

Newly planted trees still need moisture. Check the soil periodically and water during dry spells when the ground is not frozen, because winter wind can dry out roots and foliage. Evergreens in particular may benefit from this attention. Do not overdo it, though, since the signs of an overwatered tree are worth knowing.

Fertilizer. It is usually better to hold off on fertilizer for a newly winter-planted tree and wait until spring growth begins. Established trees often need little fertilizer, and a soil test is a better guide than guesswork. For an example of a careful approach, read our guide on how to fertilize aspen trees.

Planting seasons compared

Season Strengths Cautions
Fall Soil is still warm and roots can grow before the ground cools; cooler air reduces stress Needs enough time before a hard freeze in cold regions
Winter Dormant trees; bare-root stock available; rain may reduce watering needs in mild or wet climates Frozen or waterlogged soil; evergreen desiccation
Spring Soil thaws and trees start growing; easy to monitor Needs consistent watering as summer heat arrives
Summer Container trees are widely available Higher water demand and heat stress; usually the hardest season for establishment

Local conditions change this picture, so treat the table as a general guide.

Planting under and around existing trees

If you are adding plants near mature trees, take care not to damage their roots. Our article on planting under trees explains how to add a planting bed without harming them.

Frequently asked questions

What are the best trees to plant in winter? There is no single best tree. Dormant deciduous trees and bare-root stock are common choices, and in mild climates, evergreens such as southern magnolia and live oak are often planted in cool months. Pick species that are hardy in your area.

Do evergreens need extra care in winter? They can. Because they keep their leaves, they continue to lose water in winter, so watering during dry spells and shelter from harsh wind can help.

Can I plant a tree if the ground is frozen? It is generally not recommended. Wait for a thaw or for spring, and keep the tree and its roots protected in the meantime.

Should I fertilize a newly planted tree? Usually not right away. Wait until growth begins in spring, and consider a soil test first.

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