Why Bury a Fig Tree?
Common figs are borderline hardy in cold regions. Burying is an old technique, long used in places such as Italy and by home growers in northern US climates, that lays the dormant tree down and covers it so wind and extreme cold cannot kill the wood and fruit buds. It is most often discussed for roughly USDA zones 5 to 7, but check your own local winter lows and how your variety performs.
It is a lot of work and carries some risk, so it is worth deciding first whether you really need it. If your winters are mild enough, mulching or wrapping may be enough. A hardier variety also helps; see our guide to cold-hardy fig trees.
Preparing the Tree Before Winter
- Drainage: Figs prefer well-drained soil, and this matters even more for burying, since a buried tree sitting in wet soil can rot. See tree root rot treatment for what rot looks like. Choose a trench location that does not collect water.
- Feeding: Fertilizer should be modest. Avoid heavy nitrogen late in the season, which encourages tender growth. A general approach is a light balanced feeding in spring, following local advice.
- Pruning: You do not need to cut a fig back to help it survive winter. Prune only enough to make the branches bendable and to remove dead or crossing wood. Trees grown as a multi-stemmed bush with a compact form are easiest to bend.
- Stop watering late: Let the tree harden off in autumn so it goes dormant naturally.
When to Bury
Wait until the tree is dormant, which usually means leaves have dropped after a hard frost, and bury before the ground freezes solid or a deep cold snap arrives. Doing it too early, while the tree is still active and the weather is mild, can invite rot and pests.
How to Bury a Fig Tree, Step by Step
- Dig a trench. Make it alongside the tree, roughly as long as the tree is tall and deep enough to hold the bundled branches, in the direction you want to lay it.
- Tie the branches. Use soft rope or twine to gather the branches into a slim bundle. Do this gently, because dormant fig wood can still snap, particularly in the cold.
- Loosen the roots on one side. Dig a shallow trench on the side opposite the lay-down direction and gently cut or loosen some roots so the trunk can pivot instead of snapping. Avoid cutting more than needed.
- Lay the tree down. Slowly bend or tilt the tree into the trench. Do not force it.
- Cover with a barrier layer. Many growers add a layer of straw, leaves or similar material, or a sheet of plastic or board over the tree before soil, so that the wood does not rot against wet soil.
- Cover with soil and mulch. Add soil on top, then extra mulch. Some growers instead use boards or other insulation, weighed down.
- Mark the spot so you can find it in spring and keep water from pooling.
Avoiding Rot and Rodents
- Make sure the site drains well and water cannot run into the trench.
- Allow some air movement or use materials that do not hold constant moisture against the bark.
- Mice and voles can chew buried stems and may nest in straw. Some growers use hardware cloth or avoid straw next to the wood. Check local advice.
- Avoid plastic pressed directly against the wood, as it can trap moisture.
Uncovering in Spring
Uncover gradually once the worst freezes are over and buds are about to swell, often a few weeks before your average last frost. Remove the cover in stages in case a late cold snap arrives, and keep cover on hand to put back. Then lift the tree upright and stake it if needed. New growth is tender, so protect it from a late frost.
Alternatives to Burying
- Wrapping in place: Tie branches together, wrap with insulating material and cover with a waterproof, breathable layer.
- Heavy mulch over the base: Protects the roots so the tree can regrow if the top dies.
- Container growing: Move potted figs into an unheated garage or basement after they go dormant, watering only very sparingly.
- Plant against a south wall: A sheltered, warm spot reduces cold damage.
How Long Until a Fig Tree Bears Fruit?
It depends on the variety, age of the plant, and whether the wood survives winter. Many young plants begin fruiting within a few years, and potted or established trees may fruit sooner or later. Fruit that depends on overwintered wood may be lost if the tree is damaged by cold, which is one of the reasons burying is done.