What Is a Double Weeping Cherry?
The double weeping cherry is usually sold as a form of the Higan cherry, often listed as Prunus subhirtella ‘Pendula Plena Rosea’ (some nurseries use other botanical names). It is an ornamental, not a fruit tree. Its branches arch and cascade, and in spring it carries dense, double pink flowers, “double” meaning each bloom has extra petals. Leaves follow the flowers.
Most are grafted. A weeping top is joined onto an upright trunk, so the point of the graft sets the starting height of the cascade, and the tree is not simply a smaller version of a normal cherry.
How Big Does It Get?
Sizes quoted by nurseries vary, so treat any number as a range. Many double weeping cherries are described as reaching roughly 15 to 25 feet tall with a similar or somewhat narrower spread, while some grafted forms stay shorter. The graft height, the rootstock and growing conditions all affect the result. Growth is often described as moderate, and a young tree takes years to fill out.
Check the tag or ask the nursery for the expected height and spread of that specific plant. Other cherry types differ a lot in size; see how big cherry trees get for the wider picture.
Where to Plant a Weeping Cherry
- Sun: Full sun is best for flowering. Part shade may be tolerated but usually means fewer flowers.
- Soil: Well-drained soil. Wet, heavy ground encourages root and trunk problems.
- Space: Leave room for the full spread, plus clearance beneath the weeping branches so they do not sag onto a path or lawn mower.
- Position: It looks best as a specimen, where the cascading shape can be seen, such as near a pond edge, entrance or lawn corner. Avoid the lowest, wettest spot.
- Shelter: A spot protected from harsh winter wind and late frosts helps buds survive. Hardiness varies by source, so check your zone against the tag.
Basic Care
- Watering: Regular water in the first couple of years, then during extended dry spells.
- Mulch: A few inches over the root zone, kept off the trunk.
- Pruning: Remove dead, damaged or crossing branches. Prune soon after flowering rather than in the cold season, which is the common advice for flowering cherries. Avoid heavy cuts.
- Rootstock shoots: Remove any upright shoots that sprout from the trunk below the graft, since they are not part of the weeping top.
- Feeding: Usually modest. Follow a soil test or local extension advice instead of heavy feeding.
Drawbacks to Know About
- Short bloom time: The flowers often last only a week or two, and rain or wind can shorten that.
- Pests and diseases: Cherries can attract aphids, borers, Japanese beetles and some fungal and bacterial problems such as cankers.
- Oozing sap: Sap running from the trunk can point to borers, canker or injury. It is worth having a local arborist or extension office look at it. See large holes in a tree trunk for how borers show up.
- Lifespan: Ornamental cherries are often described as relatively short-lived compared with oaks and similar trees.
- Graft vulnerability: Damage at the graft can affect the whole tree.
- Cleanup: Petals and leaves drop, and the weeping habit means low branches that need training and trimming.
- Space and cost: It needs open space, and grafted specimens can be pricey.
Which Weeping Cherry Is Prettiest?
That is subjective. Double pink forms such as the one here give a full, romantic bloom. Single-flowered weeping types tend to be airier and may bloom more reliably in some regions, and white-flowered weeping cherries are also sold. If you like the idea of a pink spring show but want a different habit, you can compare it with summer-blooming options in our crape myrtle care guide.
Is It Right for You?
A double weeping cherry suits a sunny, well-drained spot where you want a focal point and can accept a brief but dramatic bloom. If you need shade, fruit or low maintenance, another tree may suit better.