What pollarding is
Pollarding is a pruning system in which the upper branches of a tree are cut back to the same point, leaving a framework of short limbs or knuckles. The tree then sends up a cluster of new shoots from those points. The shoots are cut again every year or every few years, so the tree is kept at a set height and size for its whole life.
It has a long history in Europe, where trees were pollarded for firewood, fodder and poles while keeping new growth out of reach of grazing animals. Today it is mostly used on street trees, in small gardens and for craft materials such as willow.
Pollarding, coppicing and topping
- Pollarding: cutting above head height, so the regrowth comes from the upper trunk or main limbs.
- Coppicing: cutting down to near ground level, so many stems regrow from the base. Hazel, willow and some other species are commonly coppiced.
- Topping: cutting large limbs back to stubs at random points, usually on a tree that was never trained for it. It is a different thing from pollarding and is widely discouraged. See will cutting branches kill a tree for why.
The key difference is that pollarding is begun on a young tree and kept up on a regular schedule, whereas topping is a one-time crisis cut.
When pollarding helps
Pollarding can be a good choice when:
- A suitable species needs to be kept small near buildings, paths or lights. If roots rather than height are the worry, see can tree roots damage your house foundation.
- You want a steady supply of straight shoots for stakes, weaving or fuel.
- You want dense, colourful or large-leaved regrowth, as with some willows and certain ornamental trees.
- A tree was started young and has a record of regular cutting, which keeps the wounds small.
Some arborists also value old pollards for wildlife, because the knuckles develop hollows and decaying wood. That value comes from long-term, well-managed trees.
When pollarding harms
Pollarding becomes harmful when:
- It is started on a large, mature tree that has never been cut that way. Big wounds can decay and the tree may not have the reserves to regrow.
- The species does not regrow readily from old wood.
- The cuts are not repeated. The new shoots grow from a weak attachment point and can become heavy and prone to breaking out as they get large.
- It is done as a quick fix for a tree that has simply outgrown its space.
Because the regrowth is attached only at the surface of the old cut, the shoots are generally less firmly attached than normal branches. That is why the cycle needs to continue.
Which trees tolerate it
Species traditionally pollarded include willow, London plane, lime (linden), mulberry, and some poplars and hornbeams. London plane is covered in sycamore balls and seeds. Others are not usually good candidates, including most conifers and many species that regrow poorly from old wood.
A question that comes up often is whether horse chestnut can be pollarded. It is sometimes done, but it is not a typical choice, and results vary with the age and health of the tree. Because of this, take advice from a qualified arborist first.
If you are unsure about your species, assume it is not suited to pollarding until a professional says otherwise. A tree such as an Ivory Silk lilac is better handled with the light annual care described in pruning an Ivory Silk lilac tree.
How the cycle works
- Start young. The framework is established while the tree is young, so cuts are small.
- Cut at the same level each time. New shoots are removed back to the knuckles, without cutting into the old wood.
- Repeat on schedule. The interval depends on the species and purpose, from every year for willows to longer gaps for slower trees.
The usual timing is the dormant season, but check local advice for your species, as some are sensitive to disease at certain times of year.
What happens if you stop pollarding
If a pollarded tree is left alone, the regrowth keeps thickening. The shoots become large, heavy limbs attached to a weak union, which can split or fall. Restarting after many years can be risky, and often a gradual reduction over several visits is safer than cutting everything back at once.
What happens if you never prune a tree
Most trees do not need regular pruning to survive. In a woodland they manage on their own. Problems tend to show up in gardens and streets, where a tree may grow too close to buildings, develop crossing branches or drop dead limbs. Light, occasional pruning is usually enough, and crown thinning can be a gentler way to manage density without committing to pollarding.
Alternatives to pollarding
- Crown reduction, which shortens outer branches but keeps a natural form.
- Crown thinning, which opens the canopy without changing size.
- Replacing the tree with a smaller species if the space is simply too tight.
Deciding with an arborist
Pollarding is a commitment. Ask an arborist whether your tree’s species, age and health suit it, who will do the future cuts and what it will cost over time. If a tree already has large old wounds or decay, the arborist may recommend a different approach.